Loft boarding in Cardiff homes turns a dark, awkward roof space into somewhere you can actually store things. The problem with most boarding jobs is that the boards are screwed straight onto the joists, flattening whatever insulation is underneath. We do it differently: the boards sit on raised loft legs, so the full 270mm of insulation stays fluffed up and working underneath.
That means you get proper storage and a warm house, rather than having to choose between them. Boarding is often done on the same visit as new insulation or a loft ladder, so the whole loft is sorted in one go.
Why compressing insulation is a problem
Mineral wool insulates by holding still air between its fibres. The more air it traps, the better it works. When you lay boards straight onto the joists over 270mm of wool, you squash it down to the depth of the joists, which in many older houses is not much more than 100mm. Most of the trapped air is pushed out and the insulation loses a large part of its effect, even though it all still looks present.
People often top up their insulation, board straight over it, and then wonder why the house is no warmer. Raised boarding avoids that. Our guide on boarding a loft without crushing the insulation explains this in more detail.
Who loft boarding suits
- Families who need storage for seasonal items, suitcases, baby gear or paperwork.
- Homes where the existing boarding was laid straight on the joists over squashed insulation.
- Anyone having loft insulation installed or topped up who also wants to keep using the loft.
- Lofts where you currently balance on joists to reach the water tank, aerial or a stored box.
Signs your loft needs boarding, or re-boarding
- Boxes are sitting directly on the insulation, pressing it flat.
- You have to step from joist to joist, with the risk of a foot through the ceiling.
- Old boards are laid straight on the joists and the insulation underneath is compressed.
- Old boards are loose, damp-stained, cracked or sagging between joists.
- There is no safe route to the water tank or other things that need occasional access.
Materials we use
Loft legs
Loft legs (sometimes called loft stilts) are rigid supports that screw to the top of each joist and raise the boarding platform above the insulation. We use legs tall enough to clear the full depth of your insulation, so nothing gets squashed, and fix them at regular centres so the boards are properly supported.
Chipboard loft panels
The boards are tongue-and-groove chipboard loft panels, sized to fit up through a standard hatch. They lock together into a solid, flat deck that does not flex underfoot. We leave a small gap around the edges of the boarded area and avoid boarding right into the eaves, so air can still move through the loft and moisture does not build up.
Add-ons
- Loft lighting. A light near the hatch makes the space much more usable. Any new electrics should be connected by a qualified electrician.
- An insulated hatch with a draught-proofing strip, so the opening does not undo the work below.
- A metal loft ladder, which turns a storage loft from a chore into something you will actually use.
- A raised walkway to the tank or aerial, if you only need access rather than full storage.
Storage, not a room: what the loft can take
Loft boarding is for storage. In most houses the ceiling joists were designed to hold up the ceiling below, not a room full of furniture and people. They will take sensible storage loads such as boxes, cases and seasonal items, spread out across the boarded area, but they are not designed as a habitable floor.
We keep heavy items over or near the supporting walls where possible and will tell you if the joists look undersized, damaged or notched by previous work. If you want to turn the loft into a bedroom, office or playroom, that is a loft conversion. It needs Building Regulations approval, a new floor structure, fire safety measures and proper stairs, and is a different job from boarding.
How different roofs affect boarding
The shape of the roof decides how much of the loft can sensibly be boarded, so we plan the layout at the survey rather than on the day.
- Victorian and Edwardian terraces. Common in areas like Roath, Canton and Cathays. Roofs are often traditionally framed with purlins and struts, chimney breasts on the party walls and sometimes a shallow pitch, which limits headroom. A central storage strip usually works best.
- Inter-war and post-war semis. Often hipped roofs with reasonable height in the middle, which gives a good, open area to board.
- Modern homes with trussed rafters. The W-shaped timber trusses used in most newer houses limit the clear space, and truss members must never be cut or removed. Boarding fits between and around them.
Water tanks, flues and cable runs also need access left around them, so we board around rather than over them.
What affects the cost
Loft boarding starts from £500. The price depends on:
- How much you want boarded. A central storage area is cheaper than boarding the whole floor.
- Insulation condition. If it needs topping up to 270mm first, it makes sense to do both together.
- Removing old boarding. Boards laid flat on the joists have to come up before we can raise them.
- Loft layout. Water tanks, trusses, chimney breasts and low pitches take more cutting and fitting.
- Extras such as a loft ladder, hatch work or a light.
What happens on the day
We protect the landing and stairs, then clear or move anything stored up there with your agreement. If insulation is going in or being topped up, that is laid first. We then fix the loft legs to the joists, check them for level, and lay the chipboard panels on top, cutting around tanks and trusses as needed.
Most boarding jobs in Cardiff homes are finished in a day, including combined insulation and boarding on a typical loft. Larger areas or jobs with a ladder fitting can run longer, and we will tell you this when we quote. Before we leave, we tidy up and talk you through the finished loft.
Aftercare
- Spread the weight. Keep the heaviest things nearer the walls and avoid stacking everything in one spot.
- Do not block the edges. Leave the eaves clear so the loft stays ventilated.
- Do not lift boards to stuff more insulation under. The gap above the wool is part of the design.
- Use sealed plastic boxes rather than cardboard, which can go soft in a cold loft over winter.
We cover Cardiff and the surrounding towns. Check our service areas, or call 0800 229 4668 to book your free survey.
